A Good Nose

Cuisinier - Sommelier

2008-09-04 10:17:52

The Basque country of France and Spain is unique: awkwardly straddling the Atlantic end of a precipitous Pyrenean divide, the region envelopes a pristine kingdom of surf-washed beaches, rugged river valleys, snow capped mountains and vertiginous passes, whose bloodied history helped shape the proud spirit of an ancient race. The dogged character of Basque people is renowned, forged by many centuries of struggle and a continuous effort to remain independent. Holding on to the past can be a dangerous thing, but the preservation of a great gastronomic heritage has offered a benign means of retaining their noble cultural identity.

John Stimpfig (image Newsquest Oxfordshire)Earlier this summer, I found myself talking to Laurent Champs, the relatively young and extremely talented winemaker at Champagne Vilmart between Reims and Epernay. I was there to do a story about Grower's Champagnes for the Financial Times and wanted to know how he felt about Tom Stevenson having once described Vilmart as ‘the poor man's Krug'.

Not surprisingly perhaps, Champs was only too happy about such a flattering comparison. However, he was at pains to politely point out that his style was not as simil...

2008-05-15 17:31:44

Reminiscent of a great Bordeaux chateau, there are just two principle wines at Quinta do Vale Meão: the eponymously named grand vin and a second wine named 'Meandro'. For simplicity we detail below the three most recent vintages of each wine, together with limited technical information and contact details for the Quinta. Tasting notes by leading sommelier Samuel Ingelaere for Vale Meão and Meandro 2005 will appear on this page soon.

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C�dric B�chade - Auberge Basque

2008-04-27 12:54:44

Launching Autumn 2008: an exciting new AGN micro-site following gastronomic life at l'Auberge Basque on the frontier of South-West France and Spain. Close by the beautiful resorts of Biarritz, St Jean de Luz and San Sebastian, a place where food is religion, dynamic Ducasse protégé Cédric Béchade and leading sommelier Samuel Ingelaere (ex Marc Veyrat) combine to create a brand new concept of fine wine and gastronomy: Cuisinier - Sommelier. To receive launch notification please register for our E-newsletter

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The Chef Chronicles - coming soon

2008-02-29 22:42:35

2007-10-21 14:10:02

In every sense, Francisco ‘Vito' Javier de Olazabal is a Douro Boy. At 70 years of age the oldest member of this winemaking group is possibly the youngest at heart. A born raconteur and eloquent conversationalist he is also a shrewd and successful businessman, whose deft touch with people and elegant turn of phrase denote a formidable intellect and rapier wit. Though masked by humility and occasional splashes of self-deprecation, his special qualities soon become apparent. An exceptional ambassador and dynamic publicist for his beloved Quinta do Vale Meão, Vito's high profile helps the whole New Douro movement internationally. Appeari...

The New Douro

2007-10-21 13:58:00

Douro Winemakers

This micro-site within A Good Nose.Com is dedicated to the exciting developments taking place in Portugal's Douro valley. Designated a World Heritage Site by UNESCO, the Douro is one of the most spectacular and innovative regions in winemaking. Through original words and pictures we offer a beautiful portrait of the majestic landscape, imaginative people and their dynamic wines. Only the very best estates are featured, including the well established group of winemakers 'The New Douro'. With the help of award winning French sommeli...

2007-06-06 19:48:55

India

2007-05-25 17:00:37

2007-05-25 14:02:33

Launching in Winter 2008: a new micro-site within AGN dedicated to Modern British cooking, with full colour features and gastronomic diaries concentrating on the UK's most dynamic and original chefs. Heston Blumenthal, Fergus Henderson, Sat Bains, Nuno Mendes, Simon Rogan and many more are helping to establish Britain as a leading gourmet destination. This micro-site shares stories of new stars on the rise and through privileged access offers a fresh perspective on the established culinary elite. To receive ...

Food Suppliers

2007-05-25 07:01:21

Within this dedicated section you will find features focusing on food suppliers: a growing library of online articles profiling heros and heroines of farming and horticulture. Illustrated essays on the front line of the food chain, describing landscape, environment and people. From rare breeds, organic vegetables and amazing cheeses to the preservation of our food heritage, health and improving standards for food lovers the world over. Without these individuals there would be no culinary culture and Michelin perfection an impossible dream.

Latest Food Supplier Feature

The Taste...

Gastronomic Features

2007-05-25 06:47:44

Within this dedicated section you will find features focusing on gastronomy, chefs, regional food, restaurants and food tourism. Our aim is to build a comprehensive library of illustrated essays describing the very best in culinary excellence. Do refer to the menu for an index of subjects and check this page for new additions. We plan to offer all content in downloadable PDF format and will notify readers within the live weblog section of AGN. With the exception of clearly defined magazine features, copyright belongs to David Eley.

Latest Gastronomic Feature

Fine Wine Features

2007-05-25 06:38:28

Within this section you will find features and profiles focusing on fine wine: we include articles written for mainstream publications and specialist magazines as well as a growing library of illustrated essays prepared exclusively for A Good Nose. Do refer to the menu for an index of subjects and check this page for new additions. We plan to offer all content in downloadable PDF format later this year and will notify readers within the live weblog section of AGN. With the exception of clearly defined magazine features, copyright belongs to David Eley.

Latest Fine Wine Feature

2007-03-24 13:24:46

The Douro Boys

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The Tastemaker - Rob Baan

2007-03-08 12:01:34

Rob Baan the Tastemaker: 'exporting his genius around the world'

Frans Hals' The Laughing Cavalier may still have something to smile about in 21st century Holland: forget jaded impressions of polders, dykes and vintage Gouda, a new wave of Dutch gastronomy is gathering momentum. The Netherlands may be a flat country, famed for Van der Valk and greenhouses, but its steep ascent in modern cooking is enough to give any knowledgeable gourmet vertigo. There is nothing sous vide about it: these relatively unsung heroes of the hotplate are refining their native cooking faster than any other European nation.

The Dutch are now at the cutting...

Quinta do Noval Harvest: Day 5

2006-10-20 07:46:17

24th September 2006
Weather conditions:
dry with bright sunshine and scattered cumulus, temperatures rising to 27°C
Picking locations:
Corucho, Vale do Seixo, Roncao and Quinta da Foz
Grape varieties:
Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Cao and Old Vines (mixed varietals)

Our illustrated wine diaries cover the whole vinous spectrum: from the schist strewn terraces of Portugal's majestic Douro valley to the legendary chateaux of Bordeaux, a combination of beautiful images and imaginative prose bring the winemaker's world to life. Across the greatest vineyards of Spain, France, Portugal and North America A Good Nose travels to the best destinations in wine and shares the daily routine of leading winemakers, chateau proprietors and critics - all of those whose lives depend upon the noble grape.

Latest Diary

Arrival at Noval: Sunday 17th September 2006

Christian Seely had told me Noval was special: in some ways you get to know a man through the wine he drinks and having shared many great bottles in Bordeaux it was clear that Port wine had stolen a very warm piece of this Englishman's heart. When asked to make my first visit to Portugal's Douro valley, I somehow felt as if I had already watched the sun set from the terrace at Quinta do Noval...

So vivid were Christian's descriptions of big luminous skies, rugged terrain and a warm good natured race of people, that having traversed an ar...

Quinta do Noval Harvest: Day 6

2006-10-20 07:46:17

25th September 2006
Weather conditions:
Bright sunshine with scattered cumulus, temperatures rising to 27 degrees
Picking locations:
Vale Tanque, Carvalheira, Corucho, Quinta da Foz and Quinta da Passegueiro
Grape varieties:
Tinta Rorica, Touriga Franca and Tinta Barroca

A glorious golden light permeates the ethereal fog

Monday dawns bright but misty: as a brilliant sun rises over the arched...

Ch�teau Margaux

2006-10-20 07:46:17

Morning light illuminates the classical Palladian facade of Chateau Margaux

Chateau Margaux: considered by many to be the most beautiful in all of Bordeaux, its classical Palladian façade sits squarely at the top of a lovely tree lined drive. When viewed in summer, the bleached ochre and warm white of its Doric stone columns are framed by lush green foliage. The second year cellars at Margaux are massive and resemble an underground cathedral, with an acoustic to match. The echoing sound of heavy oak barrels rolled around by aproned staff, audibly express the subterranean grandeur. This chateau more than any other spells Bordeaux to the outside world, it ...

Denis Durantou: Chateau l'Eglise-Clinet

2006-10-20 07:46:17

Dennis Durantou - the winemaker's winemaker

Denis Durantou is a winemaker's winemaker: a singular man of forthright opinions and great integrity, whose wines articulately express the soil on which his modest Pomerol chateau stands. A man who from childhood knew he would make wine, his ambitions reaching far beyond the parochial confines of Pomerol to those hallowed vineyards in the poldered wild west of Pauillac, St Julien and St Estèphe.

For over twenty years he has tried and succeeded in pushing the boundaries of wine making, while continually expanding his knowledge of terroir. His immediate predecessor at the family owned chateau was responsible for making the legendary 1947 Cheval Blanc, but the you...

2006-10-20 07:46:17

Well balanced and elegant: these two particular adjectives sit comfortably when used to describe the wines of St Julien. They also happen to fit the softly spoken proprietor of Chateau Langoa, Anthony Barton , every bit as well as his own finely tailored clothes. This Irishman from County Kildare is a master of understatement and knows just how to carry off the business of marketing great claret, in this case, Super Second Chateau Léoville Barton and third growth Chateau Langoa Barton, without ever resorting to the vulgarity of commerce or obvious salesmanship. His manner seems to epitomise that of an English gentleman, even though he is a good Irish Protestant. Direct, scrupulously honest ...

Christian Seely - Managing Director AXA Millesimes

2006-10-20 07:46:17

Christian Seely: though a serious businessman, he is seldom far removed from a broad infectious grin...

As Managing Director of AXA Millésimes Christian Seely has one of the best jobs in the world of wine. Being an Englishman at the helm of a large French company, he clearly stands out. His evolution from researcher on James Seely's first wine book, to his current position as the man in charge at AXA, might well be described as distinctly ‘classified growth'.

This mighty responsibility rests on the shoulders of a man who exudes an air of quiet calm and whose appearance epitomises the classic English gentleman. Tall, with a youthful countenance and head of tight curly hair, ...

2006-10-20 07:46:17

This in-depth feature on legendary Basque three star Michelin chef Martin Berasategui will be published online during Spring 2009. Complete with exclusive images and a comprehensive profile of his eponymous restaurant at Lasarte near San Sebastian. To receive further details please register for our E-newsletter .

Culinary Icons - Pedro Subijana

2006-10-20 07:46:17

Quinta do Noval Harvest: Day 1

2006-10-20 07:46:17

18th September 2006

Weather conditions:
Sunny and bright with temperatures rising to 29 degrees
Picking locations:
Roncao valley, Canadas, Corucho (north side)
Grape varieties:
Tinto Roriz, Tinto Barroca

Quinta do Noval - Vindima

The harvest at Quinta do Noval has be...

Quinta do Noval Harvest: Day 2

2006-10-20 07:46:17

19th September 2006
Weather conditions:
Sunny and bright with temperatures rising to 30 degrees
Picking locations:
Roncão Valley and Corucho
Grape varieties:
Tinta Roriz and Tinta Barroca

Thirsty work - a vindimadore takes a welcome break in the heat of the Roncão valley
&...

Quinta do Noval Harvest: Day 3

2006-10-20 07:46:17

20th September 2006
Weather conditions:
Sunny and bright with temperatures rising to 28-29 degrees
Picking locations:
Renova, Jardim Feco and Quinta da Foz
Grape varieties:
Touriga Nacional, Old Vines (mixed varietals)

Early morning light - the north side of Quinta do Noval

This north side ...

Quinta do Noval Harvest: Day 4

2006-10-20 07:46:17

21st September 2006
Weather conditions:
cloudy with occasional showers - temperature rising to 23-24 degrees
Picking locations:
no harvesting today

Lord of all he surveys

As I open my shutters and peer out expecting to see the now familiar sight of row upon row of terraced vines I am greeted with a damp panorama of low cloud and steady ...

Quinta do Noval Harvest: Day 7

2006-10-20 07:46:17

26th September 2006
Weather conditions:
Bright sunshine with scattered cumulus, temperatures rising to 26 degrees
Picking locations:
Canadas, Quinta da Foz, Quinta da Passegueiro
Grape varieties:
Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Barroca

Quinta do Noval viewed from Corucho

The legendary Spanish chef Ferran Adria on stage at San Sebastian's LMG Chef Congress in November 2006

A culinary revolution has taken place in Spain: during the past thirty years the gastronomic capital of San Sebastian has generated no less than 21 Michelin stars - more than any other place on the planet. Leading French chefs have enormous respect for the 3 star Spanish vanguard of Juan Mari Arzak, Martin Berasategui and moustachioed Pedro Subijana. So much so, when New York's new French Culinary Centre opened last autumn it shunned the top chefs of Paris placing them in the cold store, wh...