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Vindima at Nápoles - A Pictorial Essay

During the harvest of 2007 at Quinta de Nápoles David Eley captured a visual record of vindimadores hard at work on the steep terraces of Quinta do Carril and the sorting of grapes for the inaugural vintage in Dirk Niepoort's new gravity fed winery. In addition to the limited number of images displayed here, you may also click on the magnum icon at the foot of the page to view our full Douro Boys gallery - please see below.

 

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After arrival in the Niepoort pick-up truck, vindimadores are soon at work among the steeply terraced vines..

 

'Departing the main auto-route from Regua to Pinhão and driving up the narrow road along the Tedo river, you rise rapidly. Twisting and turning for perhaps a few hundred metres with the small ribbon of placid water snaking away to your left. In summer or autumn, the atmosphere is dusty and dry and from across a fold in the deeply undulating landscape one soon encounters the darkly verdant vines of Quinta do Carril rising skyward. This is the best vantage point to view the noble vineyard from below, where, depending upon the time of year, it is possible to witness heavy horses working along the impossibly steep terracing cloaked in autumnal mist, or at harvest time, the vindimadores toiling under a sweltering September sun as the blue-black harvest is gathered in. Distant voices reciting a gentle and familiar a cappella refrain, echoing in the stillness of this hidden valley'...

 

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The vindimadores at Napolés on this particular day are predominatly female..

 

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Farm manager Manuel Rodrigues, keeps a watchful eye

 

vindima_39_300Each heavy box of grapes must be hauled several hundred metres downhill, this heavy backbreaking work is usually carried out by men. In order to disrtibute the weight of their burden more evenly, many wear a form of harness looped over the forehead and down to a supportive cushion on their shoulders which softens the impact of the sharply angular boxes. For several hours each day, the grapes are picked meticulously and then carried along the vertiginous tracks in an almost casual fashion. At the base of the Quinta do Carril vineyard the plastic boxes are stacked alongside one another in preparation for the short journey by truck to the Napolés adega, for hand-sorting and ultimately, vinification.

 

 

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The magnificent old vines of Quinta do Carril in bright September sunshine

 

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Late afternoon in the Tedo valley - Manuel Rodrigues looks across Carril to the vindimadores working below

 

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The Tedo valley bathed in a clear golden light
At the end of each day's picking, Niepoort's team of vindimadores make their way back to the Nápoles adega, even after such exhausting work they might still be required to take part in foot treading in the lagares. As the sun sinks low on the western horizon the valley is bathed in a clear golden light and driving along the dusty road I look left toward the tranquil waters of the lower Tedo and glimpse the mighty Douro beyond. Back at the new winery there is much activity and grapes are steadily sorted by a vigilant team supervised by winemaker Luis Seabra - work will continue until late evening.

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Boxes of grapes arrive at the adega and winemaker Luis Seabra(far right) carefully regards the quality of fruit..

 

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The purple juice of Touriga Nacional grapes stains the hand of sorters
Dirk Niepoort's wines are truly hand-crafted with meticulous attention to every detail. During my brief time at Quinta de Nápoles I saw both red and white grapes brought into the modern adega. Sheltered from searing sunshine by a metal canopy, boxes are emptied onto the moving conveyer and eagle-eyed workers, some stagiaires from overseas, remove any damaged fruit. The white grapes(below) were destined for Niepoort's 'Tiara' - a minerally delicious white wine. Under artificial lights the selection process continues into the night and the moist green-gold fruit appears radiant and jewel-like..

 

 

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Skilled Napolés winemaker Luis Seabra helps his team sort the grapes for Niepoort's white wine 'Tiara'

 

At the new Napolés winery grapes travel from the reception area, on what is effectively the roof of the building, and gradually descend by gravity through four floors of this massively impressive facility. From unsorted berries at the top to finished wine in the basement, this stone and concrete temple encompasses all of Niepoort's winemaking aspirations, enabling quality control at the highest level and removing any necessity for compromise.

 

 

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As darkness falls - Dirk van der Niepoort and Luis Seabra animatedly make plans for the week ahead


As another long September day draws to a close, Dirk van der Niepoort and his winemaker Luis Seabra stand together in the twilight, beneath the creaking veranda of the original Quinta de Nápoles. Amid the gathering darkness they talk animatedly, planning the busy week ahead - two men striving for perfection, consumed by their mutual passion for fine wine and the majestic Douro valley.

 

The Nápoles Team

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