The bleak and isolated platform of Ferrão railway station clings starkly to the northern bank of the mighty Douro river and offers little shelter from a bitingly cold December wind. Looking skyward, a dense blanket of low cloud conceals the predictable ascent of a feeble winter sun and the sharp incline of Quinta do Crasto's schist-strewn hillside drops steeply from an ecclesiastical eyrie, to the aqueous mirrored surface below. I stand stiffly, waiting for the 7.56am eastbound train for Porto as a distillery on the opposite bank emits a steady but benign stream of white vapour, drifting hypnotically in the frozen air. A single shaft of pale golden light dissects the veil of thick cloud above a bank-side aperture, and the tiny Tedo river languidly issues forth to converge with its mighty parent. The whole scene reflected in a glassy, silvered surface. This modest indent along the eastern bank of the Douro, mid-way between Regua and Pinhao hides a miraculous oasis of viticultural invention and imagination. Quinta de Nápoles, the Niepoort winemaking fortress, is easy to miss as you drive east. Hard by the riverbank and adjacent to the main road a large painted sign conventionally proclaims Quinta do Tedo, yet for those who turn immediately right before this and venture further upstream, we glimpse the real future of the New Douro...


..further upstream we glimpse the real future of the DouroA new dawn - a new winery In the early morning light the rising sun diffuses the starkly angular silhouette of Quinta de Nápoles' perpendicular schist parapets. Though softened at this time of day, the dramatic outline and scale of Dirk Niepoort's architectural wonder are barely diminished and like a massive grey stone juggernaut the oblique face of his modern winery looms into view. Appearing from stage right, resembling a gargantuan piece of painted scenery, the effect is stunning and there is nothing remotely surreptitious or timid about its arrival in the Vale de Tedo. It is a scene reminiscent of a Bordeaux view from the top of the Cour de l'Intendance looking toward the
Like a massive grey stone juggernaut it looms into view..quayside on the Garonne river. One silently gasps in awe and executes a double-take whenever a mighty ocean liner passes the far end of the broad city street. The giant steel bows dwarfing all around as momentarily they are bracketed between the 18th century stone gables of Montaigne and Montesquieu. However many times one witnesses this surreal scene, the image always generates disbelief and mild amazement... such is the impact of Dirk's new building on the surrounding Douro landscape.

This brand new schist-clad edifice spells success and proclaims to the world - Douro D.O.C. wine is well and truly on the map... the shock of the new writ large, as large as the traditional black and white signs found across acres of stone terracing - Sandeman, Cockburns, Ferreira, Dows, Grahams, Warres and Taylors. This new age proclamation by Niepoort and others at the vanguard, unites the historic past with the dynamic present, it tangibly demonstrates Port wine and fine table wine can co-habit and forge a bright future for the oldest demarcated wine region in the world. Its impact is more than cosmetic, this overtly industrial building has been carefully designed to make great wine in an eco friendly and gravity fed fashion - from reception of grapes on the very top level, to storage of wine casks in their hundreds at the base, tens of metres below the earth's surface. Subterranean water-cooled fresh air circulates within and giant barrel filled wine chambers are colour-coded to match the capsules of Niepoort vinhos. All this spells modernity and confident design - it serves to inspire smaller winemakers and helps them grasp the future - with dedication and hard work, anything is possible

An elevated view of the new wineryIn the nineteen eighties Quinta de Nápoles was merely a disparate group of crumbling stone buildings surrounded by old vines, albeit, with a centuries old noble Port making history. Dirk van der Niepoort has resurrected this place, breathing futuristic life into a once defunct and tired Quinta - a place that symbolized the Douro's past, has become the epicentre of Douro creativity and winemaking ambition. Nápoles has been transformed into a place of pilgrimage for wine connoisseurs and viticulturists alike. Dirk Niepoort had a desire to build a great and bold winery: an architectural statement commensurate in quality to the standard of his wines but practical in every sense. After 20 years of service to the Douro valley, his vision has come true and he can hardly believe it has happened. This dynamic minimalist structure designed by Austrian architect Andreas Burghardt and carved out of the terraced hillside, combines the latest winemaking technology with a genuinely green and ecologically friendly aspect. Grapes travel from the reception area, on what is effectively the roof of the winery, and gradually descend by gravity through four floors of this massively impressive building. From unsorted berries at the top to finished wine in the basement, this stone and concrete temple encompasses all of Niepoort's winemaking aspirations, enabling quality control at the highest level and removing any necessity for compromise. Energy saving is enhanced by the use of solar panels and only the aging cellars have air conditioning, the whole complex is ergonomic, economic and kind to the environment. Niepoort is at the cutting edge of Douro winemaking, and though others are now catching up, so often it is Dirk who sets the pace. Quinta de Nápoles offers a focal point for wine connoisseurs who desire a benchmark by which to judge and draw comparison with the serious competition. This is welcomed by Dirk Niepoort, whose fervent desire is for the New Douro to make a mark with quality wine across the board, he is not only concerned with limited quantity micro-cuvées. Niepoort Vinhos is well respected as a long established Port brand, with a fine pedigree and history of classic fortified wines. Dirk understands the need for volume production and market share, an area he has already explored successfully.

Soup break! vindimadores descend from the terraces
Follow the yellow schist road.. Departing the main auto-route from Regua to Pinhão and driving up the narrow road along the Tedo river, you rise rapidly. Twisting and turning for perhaps a few hundred metres with the small ribbon of placid water snaking away to your left. In summer or autumn, the atmosphere is dusty and dry and from across a fold in the deeply undulating landscape one soon encounters the darkly verdant vines of Quinta do Carril rising skyward. This is the best vantage point to view the noble vineyard from below, where, depending upon the time of year, it is possible to witness heavy horses working along the impossibly steep terracing cloaked in autumnal mist, or at harvest time, the vindimadores toiling under a sweltering September sun as the blue-black harvest is gathered in. Distant voices reciting a gentle and familiar a cappella refrain , echoing in the stillness of the hidden valley... The narrow road now describes a large unruly hairpin bend, at whose peanut headed apex a small track departs and runs up between the vineyards from the bottom right corner of Carril. Here, Manuel Rodrigues, the farm manager parks his pick-up truck during harvest time to collect the vindimadores for lunch or soup breaks as they effect their slippery descent. Standing at the foot of this ancient vineyard, it is hard to discern the sun-baked heads of workers among the vines, so steep is the gradient. As the road sweeps back 180 degrees, it hugs the high stone retaining wall and begins to rise once more. Rounding the next blind bend to the right, we gain our first full view of the new winery, whose great schist face, punctured by only three modest rectangular apertures - resembles a formidable wartime defence bunker, vigilantly peering out across wave upon wave of vines. Niepoort's plan is for native vegetation to gradually encroach upon the whole and blend man-made structure, with man-made landscape. The original and rather quaint Quinta de Nápoles, complete with rickety wooden second floor veranda, still stands - looking for all the world like a house of cards about to fall. This will soon be replaced with a modern reconstructed version for administration use, thus completing the Niepoort wine compound and topping off Dirk's crowning glory.

the original Quinta 'like a house of cards'..

Welcome guests : One of the most appealing aspects of visiting Dirk Niepoort and Nápoles is the warm welcome afforded visitors. The eclectic mix of experts and neophytes regularly seated along the wooden dining table is refreshing and brings about a joyful sharing of ideas and mutual understanding. Maria José's food is of such quality it surpasses most professional and highly regarded establishments in the region because it is cooked with kindness and warmth that gladdens the heart. No less than The New York Times recently carried a feature on the Douro's many assets, among which, Maria José took her rightful place. Deliciously home cooked Cabrito (Kid), Feijoada (bean stew made with pork and smoked sausage), memorable Bacalhao (cod) and Alheira (sausage made from assorted meats other than pork) are some of the staples that complement Dirk Niepoort's wines and those
'Feijoada' - or bean stewof his distinguished visitors. Second only to his wine making prowess is Dirk's ability to cultivate and grow the finest tomatoes in the region - succulently delicious, they contribute in no small way to the vast array of lunchtime pleasures. Needless to say, Dirk van der Niepoort is himself an excellent cook but saves virtuoso gastronomic feats for fortunate diners at his home in Porto. The marvellous team of professionals working at Quinta de Nápoles is compact and multitalented: Luis Seabra the skilled winemaker, whose frequent recourse to humour masques the seriousness and discipline needed to create such very fine wine. Cellar Master Antonio Fonseca works tirelessly in his subterranean kingdom and oenologist Maria Gil performs her vital role analysing and assembling data in the Nápoles lab. Work in the vineyards is supervised at all times by the tireless and ever reliable Manuel Rodrigues, his central role is a big factor in the success of Quinta de Nápoles. Commanding great respect, he makes sure that everyone pulls together, not just at harvest time, but throughout the year, providing essential stability and consistency. Gabriela Santos is the charming accountant who deals with vital office duties and helps Dirk Niepoort with so many other activities from greeting guests, presenting wines and even treading grapes in the Lagares. Finally, if it is true an army marches on its stomach, the most important person at Quinta de Nápoles must be indomitable cook Maria José da Fonseca Mansilha!

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